Patek Philippe Nautilus 2014 : Nautilus 5990/1A in Stainless Steel
Patek Philippe has introduced new Nautilus 2014 to replace the much loved 2006 Nautilus chronograph Ref. 5980/1A. Sleek and contemporary the new Patek Philippe Nautilus 2014 (Nautilus 5990/1A) has a lot to offer with a modified design and an interesting combination of complications.
Before I begin to elaborate on Patek Philippe’s new feat, let me first give a short introduction on Nautilus watch range. Nautilus range is unique for it is the only one made by Patek Philippe with a dominant sporty look. Most Nautilus watches are built in steel, a metal most appreciated on Patek Philippe watches, now, than ever before. Nautilus became popular for Gerald Genta’s octagon dial design. First few Nautilus watches were built in monocoque case to maintain water resistancy of 120m. Nautilus water proof construction was inspired from portholes on marine vessels.
Fast forward to 2014 and see how the new Nautilus has evolved. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990/1A has come a long way from its first forefather. It is still made of steel. But the same octagon circular design is reinvented in a way, never seen before. Technically, Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph does not offer anything pathbreaking, but it does offer an interesting combination of complications mastered by a new calibre CH 28-520 C FUS .
The ultimate selling point of Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, as the name suggests, is the travel time function. Two time zones are displayed on the main dial and can be read at single glance. Local time zone is indicated by solid white hands. The skeletonised, third hand on centre dial, ticks to show second or home time zone.
During Baselworld 2014, at Patek Philippe’s stand, I had the opportunity to observe the beauty of Nautilus 2014, in flesh.
Nautilus has these signature hinge style, extended ears. The one on right side protects the crown. Observe carefully, ear on left side. It is no more an ornamental extension. It is now an important functional part of watch. Left ear has two pushers or hour correctors that are used to control second time zone. The two hinge like extensions have been a part of Nautilus design since the first watch was crafted. For the first time, Patek Philippe has made practical use, of this extension.
One might ask, since the hour markers of central dial are not indicated in 24 hour timezone, how does one differentiate between day and night? Patek Philippe has added two indicator windows, one at 3 O’clock and the other at 9 O’clock to indicate night and day at home and local time, respectively.
At 12 O’clock and 6 O’clock are two sub dials. One on top indicates date and one on bottom is a 60 minute counter.
There is a noticeable gradation used on dial of Nautilus Travel Time. On the black dial, there is a slight bright-dark gradation from the middle to the corners of dial. Background also features the familiar horizontally embossed Nautilus pattern. All numerals and markers are made in white. Hour markers, hands are in white gold and luminous paint.
Nautilus 2014’s dial has several elements that allow easy reading of two time zones. What doesn’t work for me, are the two closely placed sub-dials at 12 and 6 O’clock. Numerals used on date sub-dial, render a cluttered look. Many will differ from my opinion but I feel the top sub-dial with numbers clamouring for space, could have been replaced with more clean markers, or perhaps, a date window!
The impeccable craftsmanship is reiterated with the legendary stainless steel Nautilus bracelet. There are few watches that successfully integrate a bracelet into the dial without wasting space on large lugs. Smoothly satin-finished outer links and mirror-polished ones in the middle make this bracelet comfortable to wear.
All of the complications mentioned above can already be found in other Patek Philippe timepieces, but the way they are combined in the new Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph is a premiere. A new caliber CH 28-520 C FUS movement was thus built for Patek Philippe Nautilus 2014. Patek Philippe Nautilus 2014 price is $57,300 or Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time price is 47’000 CHF
Technical data
Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A
Movement : Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS
Self-winding mechanical movement, column-wheel chronograph with disk clutch and 60-minute counter, sweep chronograph hand, two time zones with separate day/night indicators for local time and home time. Analog date
Dimensions: 28 x 31 mm
Height: 6.95 mm
Number of parts: 370
Number of jewels: 34
Power reserve: Min. 45, max. 55 hours
Winding rotor: Central rotor in 21K gold, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Functions: Two-position crown:
- – Pulled out: To set the time
- – Pushed in: To wind the watch
- Displays: Home-time hour hand (lower hand), local-time hour hand (upper hand), and minute hand from the center
Sweep chronograph hand
60-minute counter at 6 o’clockAnalog date for local time at 12 o’clockAperture displays:- – Day/night indicator for local time at 9 o’clock
- – Day/night indicator for home time at 3 o’clock
Correction push pieces: Date between 12 and 1 Oclock
- Pushers: Chronograph start and stop at 2 o’clock
Chronograph reset and flyback at 4 o’clock
Local-time hand forward in one-hour steps at 8 o’clock Local-time hand backward in one-hour steps at 10 o’clock
Features
Case: Stainless steel, sapphire-crystal case back secured with four polished screws, water-resistant screw-down crown
Bezel with vertical satin finish and polished chamfer
Water-resistant to 120 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 40.5 mm
Length (lug to lug): 45.50 mm
Width (3 to 9 o’clock incl. crown): 45.70 mm Thickness (crystal to display back): 12.53 mm
Dial: Black brass with bright-dark gradation
Horizontal embossed pattern
10 applied baton-style hour markers in 18K white gold, luminous coating
Baton-style local-time hour and minute hands in 18K white gold, luminous coating
Baton-style home-time hour hand in 18K white gold, skeletonized and lacquered in white
Chronograph hand, sandblasted steel, rhodiumed
Baton-style date hand, 18K white gold, lacquered in white
Date scale printed white on subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock
Baton-style minute-counter hand with counterweight, brass, lacquered in white
60-minute counter printed white on subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock
Images: Vikram Mehta