I had forgotten what real bird songs sound like. I am usually surrounded by phone rings with soulless digital bird sounds. At Belmond Villa San Michele, the deep woods conduct a host of bird choirs from the first ray of sunlight to the last. It’s a place that inspires blissful solitude.
After long, I discovered the feeling of being at ease, body and mind. I had no questions for Google in my mind. No craving to block my ears with headphones or open Netflix. The motion picture before my eyes was complete. Clouds passing by creating a dance of shadows on the hermit-green creepers and manicured landscape. Fresh air, soft drizzle of rain, scents of fresh bread puffing at the restaurant adjoining Loggia.
From any room in the Villa, there are endless views of Florence city and the land beyond. I like endless views. Hope never ends with endless views.
First Impressions
Florence city appears to have too many people even in the off-season. Maybe it appears so because of the centuries old narrow lanes that were not built to accommodate the 21st century population explosion. The old town city centre is enchanting but always busy and buzzing with tourists as late as 2 AM in the night ! On my first day in Firenze, as I waited in the city centre at the pick-up point of the Hotel shuttle, I stared in awe at the close proximity between the tourist chaos and the highly rated hotels of Firenze and then congratulated myself for choosing an accommodation away from it all.
While waiting, I had the pleasure to be acquainted with a charming gentleman residing in the same property, also waiting for the Hotel shuttle. He introduced me to his beautiful wife who was a librarian in the same University where he taught Latin language. As our shuttle arrived and took off in no time, I learned that the retired couple were from America and had booked the property for nearly 10 days. “To explore the city one step at a time”. 30 minutes passed by in less time, wise conversations and never ending views of Cyprus trees that lined up in disciplined synchrony on the narrow road winding up to Fiesole; a tiny town known as the ‘Villa town’ of the affluent Italians since the 14th century. Among the many villas perched atop appeared the subtly alluring sight of Belmond Villa San Michele.
A renaissance style facade attributed to the great artist Michelangelo greets guests. Entrance is rather humble for the majestic villa that is hidden inside. Check-in was smooth by a very friendly & courteous staff and the most joyous member of the Villa San Michele family, ‘Africa’ a labrador I could take home!
My visit to Italy was unintentionally timed during the airing of the last season of Game of Thrones. A lot was on my mind as any GOT fan would understand. Walking towards my Villa suite, I crossed the beautiful vintage rooms of the Loggia. Wandering about the high ceilings and vintage archways, my eyes fixed upon a familiar symbol. It was the sigil of House Lannister on the glass doors! Staff members at the hotel too were fans of the fantasy series. They answered my astonishment with the much deserved amusement. “It might appear to be the Lannister lion but it is actually the Marzocco lion, coat of arms of the noble Davanzati family.”
The Davanzati family donated this land to the Franciscan monks in the 15th century. Some impressions of the yesteryears can still be seen at the Villa. A geometric wooden ceiling in the main hall, bearing the Davanzati family crest, Nicodemo Ferrucci’s 1602 fresco of The Last Supper in the Cenacolo Room, the monks’ former refectory and of course, the coat of arms with the roaring lion.
The Villa bears history no fantasy fiction can beat! Around the time of french revolution, when Napoleon Bonaparte became emperor he took over the Villa and used part of the property as his Florentine headquarters!
The Suite Indulgence
Escorted to my junior suite through steps straddled between layers of green landscape, the concierge handed over a large wrought iron key to me. What a contrasting environ this was from the noisy city centre! Birds melancholy in dense woods adjoining the gardens. Scent of wet grass, and contour views of the majestic Santa Maria Novella Dome crowning the petit landscape of Firenze city from a Villa fit for an emperor.
A bottle of sparkling chilled in the ice bucket and plump fruits of summer waited on the plate for me to dig in. But first I explore the suite. In 1950, a businessman, Monsieur Lucien Tessier bought the building and opened a part of the building as a hotel. Belmond took over the property in the early 80s and did what it does best! The rooms offer the comfort of a terrific luxury property and the vibe of a historic Italian Villa. A dreamlike bathroom with a soothing tub placed between the shower and toilet area. Two wash-basins placed generously apart and a wardrobe spacious enough for a long stay.
I loved every bit of my room. What amazed me is that there were no insects inside, despite every bit of the outdoors covered in creepers.
I lazed on the porch of my suite for a bit. Uffizi gallery, the Duomo and Venchi pistachio ice cream cones were calling me from afar. There is so much Italian renaissance to discover down this hill. But all of it can wait. I am in a tranquil state. Time holds still only the sky changes its colours.
Dinner at La Loggia
Indulge in the wine pairing by Sommelier Andrea Petraroli
Dinner at the Loggia was buzzing with Florence residents who travelled up the hill for Sunday evening relaxation. Night had fallen and so did the windbreakers to cover the tall arches of the Loggia. It was surprisingly chilly for a summer night in May. Service at the Loggia was impeccable. The favourites for our party were the entrée ceviche and the sea bass. The Pigeon meat, perhaps not! Desserts were palatable and well plated.
Experiences
Belmond lines up some of the most interesting, less hectic and unusual local experiences in nearly all its properties. From the few that I was offered I chose to take a cooking class with the Executive Chef. The garden kitchen located on the lower grounds of the property is reached via a hidden staircase. A tiny greenhouse reminiscent structure is our kitchen for the day. We prepare lunch here with white hats and crisp aprons. Executive Chef, Alessandro Cozzolino had set up our tables for us to cook Bruschetta, Gnocchi and traditional Tiramisu. That’s a proper three course meal! The class was entertaining but I was hoping to learn pasta too! Heh! Gluttonous me!
Understanding Wine Region in Italy with Sommelier at Belmond Villa San Michele. (Coming Soon)
