An intrinsic watch nerd who has earned himself, every watch he owns. From humble beginnings (Swatch watches) to now owner of one of the largest collections of Panerai watches in India and Middle east region, we discuss the amazing watch collecting journey of Marc Merchant of Dubai a.k.a the_Watch_cafe on Instagram.
Luxuryvolt: From SIHH 2019, which are the 5 watches that you would like to invest in and why?
Marc Merchant: FIVE – well if I had a big fat wallet then these would be my 5 take-aways in no particular order:
- The JLC Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel : Although I didn’t get hands on with this piece, it was an attention seeker on all the social feeds. Immediately to the naked eye, one can see the complexity resonating between the crown and the minute repeater pusher. The crystal chimes of the ‘Westminster carillon’ – which takes me back to my childhood memories of my school days living in London, and instantly recognizable beating from the 4 hammers. Oh yes, and it’s a multi-axis tourby, kinda complicated.
- Panerai PAM00985 Submersible Mike Horn Edition : Those who know me (or IG handle the_watch_cafe) may have noticed that I have taken on a humble collection of Panerai over recent years. However, in the past few years I and many have found Panerai to have become a little stagnant. Too many SE’s, LE’s and well quite frankly to much of the same same!
This year with the new Paneristi member, Jean Marc Pontroue coming on board and replacing Angelo Bonati – expectations were high. What Bonati achieved for Panerai brand over his 21 years tenure was fantastic. However, change was needed.
Ah, back to the question! – Mike Horn, I’m a fan of anyone that participates in extreme adventures. Living in Iraq on a Military base for 2 years provided me with many extreme occasions and incidents which were adrenaline fueled. I also participated in Glacier and mountain climbing in Switzerland in 2016 for the first time. Doing this ridiculous and somewhat dangerous adventure was such a buzz. Being able to push the human body and spirit to extremes that you would never believe you could from the comfort of your armchair back home (or tin hut in Iraq in my case). As well as wearing my PAM305 in Iraq in opposing heat and dusty environment, I also took the watch to the Swiss glaciers to see how it would perform from one extreme environment to another. It didn’t fail me. So for these reasons the PAM985 is on my list (Luis from the boutique is calling me now, I think to secure Number 4 of 19 !!).
- Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph Minerva Movement :
The Villeret-based manufacture Minerva movements always WOW me. Starting with the perfectly executed M13.21, and based on the Minerva Monopusher Chronograph 13.20 calibre that was created back in the late 1920’s. From what I see, a single main plate with stripped down bridges to produce a wonderful display of perfectly polished, grained and Geneva stripes on calibre components.
The salmon twin chrono dial (could well be mistaken for a Patek) with blue accents are just magic – I fell In love with this piece. It presents historical perfection in a modern world. And one doesn’t necessarily have to be a lottery winner to get there hands on one. And limited to a 100 pieces, makes it rather more special. Wonder who has a contact at MB!?
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Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Manara Watch Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture – Mermaid meets Nadi, it would just be a fantastic, yet naughty piece to bring to any of the many watch gatherings – for giggles!
- Panerai L’Astronomo ‘Galileo-inspired’ Moonphase Tourbillon 921
Ok! So this piece was actually revealed in SIHH 2018. However, a new version in SOLID gold was unveiled privately and subject to ‘made-to-order’ only. When I picked the piece up, my hand fell back to the table – the weight of this thing will surely increase the gun size on anyone’s bicep (not for the weak).
Features include:
- Moon phase
- Equation of time
- Patented Tourbillon regulator with 30 seconds rotation
- GMT
- Celestial observations to the owners geo location accurate to 100 years. Operating on 2 disks working in unison.
- Polarized crystal date window patent-pending system in which the date disk is made of borosilicate glass
- Panerai’s P.2005/GLS skelotised movement
- Day/Night indicator
- Power reserve indicator
- Date, Month
- Sunset, Sunrise
All housed in a HUGE but well fitting 50mm solid gold Luminor case.
Priced at a mere $260k – Gulp!
Luxuryvolt: How did the watch collecting journey begin for you?
Marc Merchant: I started my journey into things mechanical when I was a child, coming from a very humble single mother upbringing with 3 siblings. Money was always tight in the household, which in turn meant gifts were not always what one wanted.
Whenever I (or my younger brother) received a small battery-operated car for instance, I would instantly take it out to the shed in the yard and take a screwdriver to it. Taking it to pieces to see how the components were put together, which wire, and cog did what. Basically to see how the dam thing worked and if I could model something else than a perfectly created toy car. Much of the time my young brother often wondered why his little battery-operated car didn’t work and I had motors taped to a battery, glued to a wall in the shed !!
My First Watch – Swatch!
Then I remember my mother returning from a coaching holiday in Spain (google Siesta coach holidays) and bringing me a Swatch watch. It had all sorts going on on the dial. Not just the time but 3 other dials also and pushers that when pressed would move the other hands. Wonderful I thought, however there were no screws that enabled me to open it!. Bugger! So, at that moment I just had to enjoy this lump of plastic, which turned a lot of heads at the school I attended.
Next year, mother returned with another Swatch, this one didn’t have any extra dial or pushers – I felt short changed on this occasion. So, I was about 13/14 years old, I decided to save my money that I earned from the mid-week paper round that I had tirelessly, delivered for the past year. I spotted a watch in the window of the local jewellers in Darlington ‘H.Samuels’ – its was a Rotary gold plated on leather band, with roman numerals, I thought it was the nuts! Completely complimented NON-of my baggy jeans, fake Naf Naf jumper and ‘curtain’ hairstyle, nor my pink spotty teenage complexion.
My accomplishment of earning and saving for something as small, simple and what I believed to be complicated inside the watch – was where my journey started and stopped.
Fast forward 22 years and my arrival in the Middle East, good times had arrived with work. I had money in the bank and the sun was shining. I had never forgotten those first watches that I had acquired when I was a teen. And now was the time to revisit where I had left off.
I had been eyeing an Omega for about a year, the new Omega Planet Ocean Chrono – lots of dials and pushers, just like the first Swatch back in 1990. “That’s the one I want” I said to myself. So, I popped down to Emirates Mall, and apprehensively asked the attendant to try the watch. As I slipped this big chuck of steel onto my wrist, and it is a big piece, at 44mm and 20mm deep – its huge and heavy. I was memorized, the dial, the hands, the bezel, the pushers. There was so much going on, however it all fell into place aesthetically and purposely. The assistant asked if I had seen the caliber, “the what” I replied. The mechanics inside, “let me show you” he said.
At that point I remembered all the little toy cars I had disemboweled to make various transmitting devices to contact UFO’s and alternative Alien life forms. I started fidgeting excitedly as I slipped the watch off my wrist, waiting for the assistant to pull out his little tool set and start unscrewing things. Yeah I know!!!!!
Upon flipping the watch over – I was blown away (no screwdriver required). Shiny, tiny, red pieces, gold pieces – OMG I thought, Ohhhhh M Jeeeeee…..
So, that’s where it really started, the connection between my childhood Swatch of the spotty 90’s to the sunshine desert of the Omega Planet Ocean of the 12’s.
From there forth, my collection grew slowly adding a Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar and a Zenith Big Date Special (yes, DFS sales again). Over a period of maybe 3 years, I was fortunately able to add further pieces to my collection, including the PAM 424 and also a vintage 1967 GMT Pepsi which I regrettably sold at auction last year!!
It was within a matter of 6/7 months that I had been successful in acquiring many vintage pieces, including a rare 5513 Submariner. After a year of owning it, I relaised that it was even more rare. It was in fact a transitional ‘Bart Simpson Gilt dial’ I think only made between 1966-67.
A Passionate Watch Collector
Between 2016-17, my passion for vintage watches and Panerai escalated exponentially. Within an 18-month period I dare say I had amassed a Panerai collection of what became the largest in the Middle East! I won’t announce numbers but each individual piece I have received has had zero meaning. I say that because there are many people who purchase a piece for a reason that was a special moment in their life (that was my Omega), and whilst I relate to that also, when collectors amass such a quantity of pieces and claim to have an individual story attached to each one – I call BS. I really don’t want to come across as arrogant or egotistical. I come from very humble upbringings and I am truly grateful and blessed to have been able to have collected so many wonderful pieces. I just try to cut the snobbery and high ranking that can be associated with watch collecting.
Since my Panerai collection has matured to a level that I consider sustainable and retainable. My slightly elevated knowledge of other brands has also expanded my attitude and attractions have changed. I was never interested in brands such as VC, Audemars or Patek, as they seemed to be associated with the let’s say ‘more mature genre’. Quite frankly what I thought, were just way out of my financial reach. However, once again after educating and widening my what was once a narrow vision on certain marks and brands, these brands are attainable and ever more historically acknowledged and recognized as the pioneers of horological conquests. Since getting my formal invite from the Dubai Watch Club, I have been exposed to so much more in the horological creative world, including some very exceptional connections. My AP relationship takes me all the way to Singapore, whilst my Patek pursuit takes me across the Atlantic to New York and the Patek Tiffany boutique. I have been fortunate enough to be able to indulge in my collection from Peru to Hong Kong and from Russia to Dubai – collecting watches really is a timeless adventure (pun intended).
Since I invoked my consciousness into seriously understanding and collecting watches, my collection has evolved including not just Panerai and Rolex, but other brands such as IWC, Tudor, AP, Patek Philippe, Blancpain, Parmigiani, Heuer and a few more have entered my collection. Oh and G-SHOCK, they are becoming quite the collectable – attributed to social media hype I suspect
My understanding and passion for watches has matured over a short period of time, learning the intracity of the mechanics, the time involved with producing a single 5mm component. As I continue to learn and understand, I think my thought process will push me down the independents route with the likes of MB&F, Urwerk and HYT to name just a few.
Luxuryvolt: When did you buy your first Panerai watch and what inspired you to chose that watch?
Marc Merchant: My first Panerai was the 00424 California with date window. In 2015, I purchased my first Panerai. I had done a little research on the brand and at first it was the size, style and the historical association with Rolex that attracted me.
The mythical stories of the famous ‘California Dial’, apparently made in error during the mid to late 30’s when Panerai ordered 2 lots of dials from Rolex. Rolex interpreted the request as ‘2 dials on 1 face’, and so created the California with both Arabic and Roman numerals. I realize that people reading this will be “errrrr WRONG”, but truly nobody really knows – NOBODY!
So I am at the boutique umming and arriing about the Pam424, and my friend sat next to me nudging me, encouragingly in the ribs, to drop $9k on my first PAM424 ! BOOM! done! My friend proudly reaffirming his ability to manipulate me into spending my hard earned wonga on a timepiece – it was the 2nd time he had achieved this.
Luxuryvolt: Do you own any watches by independent watch makers?
Marc Merchant: I acquired my first indie watch late last year after a 12 month wait. Discussing, ordering and waiting for an extended period of time for your numbered handmade piece is a unique experience. All sorts of thoughts go through your mind when you leave payment for the personal piece you have secured. I wanted No.10 of 88. Wasn’t sure if it was reachable, however to my surprise and most probably much background negotiating with Konstantin Chaykin, Pietro conformed the piece. Wonderful!
The KC Joker II in Titanium was an alternative run to the much success of the predecessor Joker I.
I wanted this piece as I could instantly recognize it as being a fun, non-stuffy conversation starter to even a non-horological person. Also because on each glance of the time, those big goggly eyes would be pulling another hilarious face.
It was late December 2018 and I was travelling back from Peru to Dubai via London, when I get a text message mid flight from Pietro “Hey Marc, your Joker has arrived, when do you want it?” My response, “Hey! Pietro, I’ll be landing in Gatwick in 3 hours, can you make it happen?” Now that’s VVIP service!
The Joker II – my message is ‘Don’t take life so seriously, time is short’
Luxuryvolt: We saw you sneaking into the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, earlier this year and then insisting they make a special limited edition equation-of-time watch just for you? What’s going on!?
Marc Merchant: I work with the US government, I understand the secrecy act 😉 I cannot possibly divulge that information publicly.
Visiting the Neuchâtel factory was a first for me. Actually it was my first visit to any watch making facility. It was a truly eye-opening experience. It answered the question most often asked “why does that watch cost so much”. Once you have seen the man/woman hours of detailed intricate work that goes into ensuring our watches are made to the highest quality and specification, one begins to understand.
Panerai also work with one of the local Universities. Designing and engineering machinery purposely dedicated for the sole use of the Neuchâtel facility, I think this is important to ensure the future of watch making continues. We can see the ever-dying trend of hand made watches slowly wandering away. Hopefully with the involvement of the universities and with the younger generations taking an active role, the old traditions can once again be embraced, and the creation of handmade watches continues for generations.
I was overly impressed with the ‘green mission’ that Panerai and the facility projected, from the re-usable rainwater being used for the bathroom facilitates to the compulsory parking charges for those that drove vehicles to work. And the money earned from those parking fees was then given to those who used public transport – simple but genius. Very commendable.
Luxuryvolt: 3 watches you would recommend to people you do not like.
Marc Merchant: Ohhhh I like this one!
- Patek 5711 Blue Dial Tiffany & Co: Impossible to acquire, unless you are willing to pay crazy premium over the $30k RRP – like 4 times. Loser-ville! Definitely a douche in my eyes!
- Audemars Piguet Code 11:59: When I speak to someone I don’t like, I look unimpressed, stoic like – when I saw the Code at SIHH, I had the same empty stoic look on my face. I backed away slowly.
- A Fake Rolex Sub: It’s usually fake, rude and obnoxious people that I don’t relate too. So I would definitely recommend they buy a decent 1:1 Rolex Sub copy. I would even help them acquire and part with a few hundred dollars in the process.
