High jewellery watches took precedence in many collections showcased at SIHH 2019. Sheer artistry, exemplary craftsmanship and technical prowess was on display. We pick some of the eye catching designs that were unveiled at Palexpo, Geneva in January
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous collection
Jaeger-LeCoultre dialled up their game this year with the Rendez-Vous collection. Two novelties were added to the Rendez-Vous collection that showcase the brand’s expertise in High Jewelry craftsmanship. The Rendez-Vous Night & Day Jewellery watch shows resplendent diamonds, all of 186, in a prong setting – a technique that requires top class mastery over gem setting. Of these, 126 diamonds are set on the bezel while 47 of these stones are set inside the dial of the Jaeger-LeCoultre diamond watch.
The lugs are stacked with diamonds too as is the inverted cabochon. The high jewellery watch fitted with an 898B/1 automatic calibre comes with taupe or blue alligator leather straps in white and pink gold. The second novelty, Rendez-Vous Moon Jewellery model, sparkles thanks to an aventurine midnight blue sky lit up by stars and a new mother-of-pearl moon face.
Piaget Polo
One of Piaget’s most successful timepieces for women, the Polo is a style accessory that has found its loyalty among the fashion forward. Launched 40 years ago, the Piaget Polo has underwent a remodelling in 2016 featuring a larger case size and a bezel that merged oblong and round shapes. The year also saw the Polo come out in steel version, opening up a new phase in Piaget’s history. Last year, the Polo debuted in gold.
In 2019, it’s all about colour and gem setting. Green is the colour of the season for Piaget. The 42mm Piaget Polo in steel features a deep green dial and dark green alligator leather strap is limited to only 500 pieces. The Maison’s expertise in gem setting is showcased in the second 42mm novelty which comes in two diamond-set versions. For those who prefer to keep it subtle yet like a bit of sparkle, the 18k gold model features a border of brilliant-cut diamonds. But for those who dare to stand out, and have a serious affinity to bling, Piaget has the Polo resplendent with fully paved dial and bezel.
Cartier Baignoire
A Cartier model that found fans in French actresses like Catherine Deneuve, Romy Schneider and Jeanne Moreau, the Baignoire was conceived by Louis Cartier as an homage to intelligent women. He elongated the dial to a rather longish oval shape, taking inspiration from the bathtub, which incidentally gave the novelty its name. (Baignoire in French means bathtub.) Crafted as an elegant yet simple watch, the Baignoire has been one of Cartier’s symbols of refinement.
In 2019, Cartier concentrates on some basic designs and adds certain nuances that dial up the luxury watch brand’s style quotient. The 2019 novelties include a more slender strap, a silver matte dial with water resistance of 30 meters. Another novelty from the Baignoire family, the Allongée, which was first unveiled in 1960 stands out on the wrist with its oversized oval case. This year two novelties have been unveiled by the Maison – medium and extra-large – both which are crafted in pink gold, set with brilliant cut diamonds and limited to 100 pieces each.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Just about every watch manufacture out there seems to be fascinated by the rainbow sphere. But one manufacture that truly took us by surprise (or should the word be shock?) is Audemars Piguet. One of the finest and serious watch makers out there has gone and added the rainbow spin to its outstanding Royal Oak family. Sure, we get the fact that business has been an uphill task in the last couple of years.
But when a revered brand like Audemars Piguet gets on the rainbow bandwagon, there is some food for thought. The Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked novelty features 32 baguette-cut sapphires in rainbow hues around the bezel. Yet, it’s hard not to admire the rhodium-toned openworked dial and golden double balance wheel mechanism which are visible from both sides of the 37 mm skeletonised timepiece. The colour halo aside, this one is quite a remarkable watch for the ladies who like technicality.
Moser & Cie Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black
Moser & Cie take the term Haute Horlogerie to new heights with the Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black. At first glace, the Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black gives off the appearance of a smart watch although it is anything but. The new novelty from H. Moser & Cie has no logo, hands or indices. Yes, you read that right.
The only visible form on the Moser & Cie black watch rectangle dial is a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The Swiss manufacturer goes back in time to create a watch that requires you to use your ears to tell time. Just like in olden days when minute repeaters were used to learn the time, the Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black brings together the technical exemplariness of a minute repeater and a tourbillon.
Traditional watch making is epitomised inside this novelty where the manufacture has instituted a form movement combining a flying tourbillon and a minute repeater with shaped chimes. Inside the watch beats a hand-wound HMC 901 calibre. Minimalistic and captivating, this timepiece showcases ingenuity in watch manufacturing.
Audemars Piguet Sapphire Orbe
It’s high drama and exemplary craftsmanship on display from Audemars Piguet with the Sapphire Orbe. Named after the river that crosses Le Brassus, home of Audemars Piguet, the mesmerizing Sapphire Orbe is an ode to magnificent creativity and the art of horology. A shimmering oasis of diamonds and sapphires, the Sapphire Orbe is more than just a watch – it is a true amalgamation of watchmaking and haute joaillerie.
Featuring more than 12,000 stones, the Sapphire Orbe’s central petal-shaped rings are set with diamonds and sapphires. The shades of these stones vary in six varieties of blue and orange.
The stunning piece has at its centre a 2 cm globe adorned with dark blue sapphires. Invert this globe and what you see is the watch’s 18k white gold dial set with resplendent graded orange sapphires. The stone work flows through its diamond-set bracelet. More than a timepiece, this is an architectural beauty.
Richard Mille Bonbon Collection
This year, Richard Mille decided to unleash its playful and sweet side.The Bonbon Collection from Richard Mille showcasing the sweet side of watchmaking. Richard Mille unveiled 10 novelties under two lines at SIHH this year. The Fruit and Sweets Lines showcase pop-tastic timepieces in hues that would fit in perfectly at a Candylicious store.
The Fruit line includes six ‘flavours’: lemon and strawberry, kiwi and cherry and blueberry and litchi. The Sweets line feature four models that are reminiscent of treats from childhood: marshmallow, lollipop, liquorice and cupcakes.
Bringing to life the essence of the two lines are miniature sculptures that are painted and lacquered by hand. A mouthwatering collection, the Bonbon collection from Richard Mille is wonderful tribute to horological fantasy that combines craftsmanship, technicality and playfulness. Although this collection might not appeal to all, it sure does add sweetness to the world of horology.
