When I think of a tonneau shape watch the first picture that flashes in my mind is that of a Vacheron Constantin watch. The Malte collection particularly. The barrel shaped watch case is my all time favourite. I like how the shape compliments the use of leather straps on watches. The dominantly curved frame nearly seamlessly merging into the width of the strap. It was Louis Cartier who designed a tonneau watch much before Vacheron Constantin, way back in 1906! At SIHH 2019, Cartier will add two new versions of the tonneau watch in the mens collection. What’s new in the make? The tonneau watches will now be fully water resistant with aesthetically contemporary alterations to the movement shape, hours and minutes.
Cartier 2019 mens collection will add a stunning platinum tonneau watch, one in rose gold and predictable skeleton versions in both metals. The Cartier SIHH 2019 skeleton watches will display dual time zones choreographed by open movement framed in a tonneau shape.
Louis Cartier primarily being a jeweller had a way with curving precious metals. When Santos Dumont, a Brazilian aviator became the first European to achieve sustained flight in 1906, he asked Cartier to make a watch for him that saved him the trouble of pulling out strings from his pockets to read time (pocket watches). Cartier then made a square shaped wrist watch for the aviator, one of the first few to be wrapped around the wrist.
Cartier 2019 tonneau watches are constructed using modern techniques of watch making. Single block of metal is used to carve the bezel on the new Cartier Tonneau watches. Its contours and lugs melt into the watchcase. On the non-skeletal dials, polished, rhodium-plated numerals emerge over the dial background. Dials are champagne-coloured on the pink gold version & silvered on the platinum model. A ruby cabochon sits elegantly on the crown as is Cartier style. The dial case measures 16 MM X 12.9 MM.
The skeleton pieces are more of an eye-glass candy! Cartier has placed a dual time zone in it, using one single movement – 9919 MC calibre. Shape of the movement had to be altered a bit to fit into the curved contours of the Tonneau watchcase. As seen in the images of the 2019 Cartier mens platinum watch, the geartrain features angled cutting on its barrel and escapement wheel. How does one read the two time zones? The two time zones are connected to create a uniform display of skeleton through the transparent watch. First time zone on Cartier skeleton tonneau watch is easy to read on the skeleton bridges, and the second time zone is set by pressing on the crown at 4 o’clock and by one-hour jumps. Each of the gold and platinum watches come in 100 pieces. The watch dial measures 37.8 MM X 24 MM. 20 numbered pieces are available in the baguette-cut diamond-set platinum series.
